Lo and behold our crappy $8 hostel room had a rooftop restaurant with a view of the Taj Mahal. One evening the workers started rushing us to finish our meal and get inside. What looked like rain in the distance was actually a huge sand storm. We helped the staff dismantle the canopy and watched as the city was engulfed in a fog of sand.
The next morning we got to the gates early to see the Taj Mahal in the morning light and beat the crowds. There's no beating the crowds. We balked at the entrance fee which was three days of our budget - until we realised that $20 was actually a steal to see the f**king Taj Mahal!